Mediaval - Rome
The fortress, consisting
of a crenellated wall which, strengthened
by a tower, enclosed dwellings and stables,
dates from the 13th century.
Enlarged in
the 15th century by Count Everso II, the
building was heavily restored in the 19th
century. Since 1914 it has been the seat
of
the House of Dante, a cultural institution
that promotes studies on the poet.
Near the square is the church of
San Crisogono,
one of Trastevere's great
medieval basilicas. In the apse is a
13th-century mosaic erroneously attributed
to Pietro Cavallini.
The bell tower, 5 storeys
tall, was built ca. 1120 by order of the
church's cardinal, Giovanni da Crema, who
also had the basilica built.
Going all the
way down Via della Lungaretta swe
arrive at the square of
Santa Maria in Trastevere,
one of Rome's medieval gems (see Itinerary
2).
The apse contains the famous mosaics
with the Coronation of the Virgin, executed
in 1143, and the Stories of the Virgin done
by Pietro Cavallini in the 13th
century.
To the left of the apse
is the Altemps Chapel, containing the
6th-century Our Lady of Mercy, one of the
oldest images of the Virgin arriving up to
the present day. The church allegedly
stands over the Taberna meritoria where, in
38 B.C., a miraculous eruption of oil took
place, interpreted later as an annunciation
of the birth of Jesus. The first church in
the city dedicated to the cult of the
Virgin was thus founded on the site of the
miracle in the 4th century. In reality,
more than a miracle, the eruption was
caused by the natural emission of oil from
the ground.
This quarter, fairly tranquil during the
daytime, at night becomes populated with
Romans and foreigners seeking a place to
eat and have fun. An excellent pizza can be
enjoyed at Da Ivo, at Via San Francesco a
Ripa 158 (06 5817082), or you can eat at
Gildo, at Via della Scala 31/A (06
5800733). In Piazza di Santa Maria in
Trastevere there is the restaurant
Sabatini, a true institution in the quarter
(06 5812026). In any case, almost all
places propose excellent selections,
suitable for all tastes and wallets!
Length of itinerary: about 4 hours.
Practical advice: The itinerary takes place
on foot. We recommend taking it in the
afternoon, in order to be able to end the
day with a meal in a typically Roman
restaurant.
The church of Santa
Cecilia, considerably changed down through
the centuries, has a beautiful Gothic
tabernacle executed by Arnolfo di Cambio in
1293,
and precious 9th-century apse
mosaics. The monks' choir holds the famous
fresco with the Last Judgement by Petro
Cavallini,
the greatest Roman painter of
the late 13th century.
Once again going back to
Via dei Genovesi we arrive in
Piazza Sonnino, which has
one of the
most well-know medieval constructions: the
Torre degli Anguillara, better known as the
House of Dante.
A la découverte de Rome: 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12