Rome - Along the tiber
The island is connected to the
mainland by two bridges: the
Cestio, connecting it with the
Trastevere bank, and the
Fabricio, or Ponte dei Quattro
Capi,
which was built in 62
B.C. and is the oldest bridge
in Rome which has arrived to us
practically intact. From the
island it is also possible to
see a third bridge,
the Ponte
Rotto, which collapsed in the
late 16th century. In the past
the Ponte Fabricio was called
Ponte dei Giudei (Bridge of
Jews)
because it joined the Isola
Tiberina to the area of the
Ghetto where Rome's Jews
lived.
The term Ghetto is used to
indicate the quarter lying
between Monte dei Cenci and the
Theatre of Marcellus, lying
entirely within the Sant'Angelo
district.
It was founded by
Pope Paul IV Carafa in 1555,
and abolished only in 1870,
with the end of the Church
State. It was surrounded by a
wall in which there
were three
gates, opened in the morning
and closed at dusk. In an area
of approximately three
hectares, in the 17th century
around 9,000 inhabitants
lived
there in frightful sanitary
conditions. The Ghetto faces
onto the Lungotevere Cenci
with the monumental building of
the Synagogue,
built in
1904,
today also the seat of the
Israelite Museum of the Jewish
Community of Rome.
Behind the Synagogue
runs the
Via del Portico d'Ottavia,
which owes its name to the
ruins of the ancient portico
built at the end of the 1st
century B.C.
by the Emperor
Augustus for his sister.
Inside part of the monument
stands the church of
Sant'Angelo in Pescheria,
so-called in reference to the
important
fish market held here
from the Middle Ages up to the
end of the 19th century. The
stone tablet used in the market
to remind customers of the
obligation
to give the
Municipal Magistrates the heads
of any fish whose length was
longer than that of the tablet
itself is still there.
The church of Sant'Angelo was
one of the four churches where
Jews had to go every Saturday
with the obligation of
listening to the sermons aiming
to convert them.
It was
possible to avoid doing so by
paying a fine, but more often
the Jews preferred to fill
their ears with wax!
Today the
Ghetto is one of the zones of
Rome which, more than any
other, has kept the
physiognomy, aromas, and
flavours of the old city:
for a
taste of the specialities of
authentic Roman and Jewish
cooking - carciofi alla giudia
(crisp-fried whole artichokes),
filetti di baccalà
(fried fillets of salted cod),
coda alla vaccinara (braised
oxtail butcher style) - we
recommend the trattorias
Giggetto, at Via del Portico
d'Ottavia 21a/22
(tel.
06-6861105), and Al Pompiere,
at Via Santa Maria dei
Calderari 38 (06 6868377). Also
make a stop at Boccione,
Via
del Portico d'Ottavia 1, for
cakes, pastries, and unleavened
bread baked in the best
Roman-Jewish tradition.
Descubrir Roma: 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12
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